The Scariest(ish) Ghost Tour in Dublin

October is coming to an end which means one thing: Halloween. While the excitement for the holiday is not quite what it is in the States, Ireland has it’s own sort of vibe and spookiness to offer up to those Halloween enthusiasts (like myself). However, living the TV-less existence that my roommates and I suffer through, neither myself or my haunt-loving flatmate Annie, had been able to get into the spirit with classics such as Halloweentown (1 or 2, the rest are shit tbh), Scream or Hocus Pocus.

Deprived of our normal frightful entertainment to put us in the holiday mood, we decided to go on a ghostly walking tour of Dublin. After searching the internet, Annie found a group called Hidden Dublin that featured a Northside Ghost Walk. We booked our tickets and forced ourselves out of our cozy Netflix-laden beds to pursue the unknown (we really had to will ourselves to leave the house, so we tried to make it sound extra adventurous).

We started the tour outside the Church Bar, which, unsurprisingly, was a bar that had once been a church (very creative). Outside of it, what is seemingly a normal cement courtyard we learned was actually a graveyard at one point. Dublin, in a move of pure class, had taken the grave stones, piled them against the far wall of the park, and left them there, paving over the grassy area and never even removing the bodies.

Making our way to the next stop, Annie and I were excited at the thought of what was to come next after being sufficiently spooked.

What followed was indeed a scary night, but not in the way expected….

Stopping in front of a slightly decrepit building near Four Courts, our tour guide started to tell us the story of the location. However, I couldn’t tell you a word he said, because at that point I was much more interested with the group of threatening looking teenagers viciously trying to rip bikes off their locks just feet away. Four or five of them were clustered around, while one tugged violently at a nice black street bike. Myself and a few of the people in the tour group took to our phones to call the police.

The scene grew even more absurd when a man from the pub next door came out to get his bike (not the one being stolen, but still) and saw the teen ripping at the one next to his. He yelled at the boy, asking what he thought he was doing, and the kid just yelled “I’m stealing this fucking bike!” and continued on. At this point we were all flummoxed at what to do next, as none of us particularly wanted to get in a fight with a group of Irish teenagers. It was just then that the flashing lights of the police came round the corner. The boy had freed the bike seconds before and tried desperately to escape, but he was caught once he rounded the next corner (sweet, sweet justice).

Unfortunately for our tour guide, no one had listened to a word he’d said, so we continued on, more fascinated by the heist we’d witnessed than the story of the supposed ghost in the building behind us.

Next we were led to Smithfield to hear about the famous bandit who had had a series of tunnels beneath Dublin to escape capture. Obviously that hadn’t worked out quite as he’d planned when they hung him for his crimes (a common theme among many of the stories we heard that night, being a rope salesman must have been a very lucrative business in Dublin). Everything was going as planned, the group settled after the bike incident, when we noticed another group of teens (those damn Youths) clustering around the road, looking mischievous.

Seconds later, a car whipped around the corner, skidding and sliding, doing donuts around the tiny square, coming close to hitting the other teenagers as they darted out of the way laughing. When it started making it’s way towards us and the kids were running away, however, it became much less entertaining. Right as I was readying myself to book it into one of the alleys, it took a sharp turn into the luas lane and sped off. I have no idea what happened after that, as a luas came from that direction about a minute later, but it must’ve involved some creative driving and a lot of swearing from the luas driver.

At this point we were all sufficiently distracted again, so our tour guide tried desperately to capture our attention back and led us towards the next location. We stopped down a back alley in a relatively residential area. It was quite spooky, with little lighting and unkempt buildings. Our guide began the story of a witch who had lived in the house behind him, but by then the next distraction had reared it’s head (literally).

Parked parallel to our “haunted house” was a car that had obviously thought this deserted street would be suitable for some alone time. What they certainly did not expect I imagine, wass a group of 20 people coming up and standing next to them while they tried to have said alone time. I will hand it to them, they made a solid effort to pretend like they were just resting, that she was just laying her head on his lap and he just petting her hair casually, but they knew the jig was up when we were all roaring with laughter. Soon they sped off in their car, eager to escape our group and their growing embarrassment.

By now our tour guide was at the end of his rope and didn’t even care that we weren’t paying attention anymore. He told us the inspirational words that the faster he spoke and we listened, the faster we would get to the last stop: the Brazen Head pub. It was clear that we all, including him, needed a pint after all the excitement. We stopped one more time at a supposed mass grave and then speed-walked towards our final destination and beer.

All in all, it wasn’t exactly the scary tour we’d been expecting, but it did leave us with a good story. We sipped our well-deserved pints in the warmth of the old Brazen Head and listened to some good live music, and while we didn’t get our spooky ghost experience, we were still pretty content.

UNTIL A GHOST CAME OUT AND KIDNAPPED ANNIE… just kidding, we went to bed after that, can’t blame a girl for trying though *shrugs*.

Game of Thrones Tour – Belfast

So it’s pretty much an established fact at this point in my life that I am a huge nerd for anything fantasy-related. That being said, I am a Game of Thrones fanatic, so when the opportunity presented itself to go to Belfast, I immediately booked into a GoT tour so I could live out my fan-girl dreams.

I booked a tour through gameofthronestours.com and chose to do the Belfast Winterfell Locations option (there’s also the Iron Islands and Stormlands Adventure). I booked a student ticket and it cost 36 euro in all, which included the bus tour for the entire Saturday.

We met in front of Top Shop in Belfast City Centre and from there were bused to our first location. Our tour guide Damian was really funny and even though we weren’t a super lively bunch (as it was early in the morning and already pissing rain), he still kept us entertained on the way there with stories and anecdotes. He has worked on the set of the show since it’s first season, so we spent the first part of the trip talking with him on his theories of how the next season will play out/how the show will end (but I won’t give away the secrets!!). There was a brief ferry ride that offered the opportunity for us to get off the bus and stretch out legs which was nice (plus it offered a good photo op, the harbor was really cute).

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The bus finally pulled up to Old Castle Ward, which was used as the set of Winterfell in the first season. We walked into the courtyard and Damian showed us a booklet of screenshots from the show, pointing out where various scenes had happened and who had done what and where they had done it. It was actually pretty surprising how much they fit into such a small space, as the courtyard was tiny in comparison to the way they made it seem in the show. After we’d gotten our fill of photographing every inch of the place, we moved onto the second location.

Our group headed off on a side road and walked through the woods for a bit, finally coming up on a hill where a small tower loomed over the grounds. We found out that this area had been used to film the Twins and also served as the background for Rob’s army camp (RIP). At this point it was absolutely pouring rain, so I took my picture (excuse my wet-rat appearance) and scuttled back to the bus.

By the time everyone had returned to the bus, we were soaking wet and freezing, so we moved onto the next (and at the time, sorely needed) stop which luckily was a very cozy pub by the name of The Cuan. Aside from serving delicious warm soup and fresh (soul-warming) pints, they also put up many of the cast members of Game of Thrones in their upstairs rooms as they’re a bed and breakfast as well as a pub and eatery. Plus, they were the first to receive one of the “Doors of Thrones” which were elaborately carved doors made from the fallen trees of the Dark Hedges (pretty badass if I do say so myself).

With the comfort of food and beer in my belly, I happily readied myself to board the bus again, but our tour guide had a surprise up his sleeve. We were met outside the pub by the dogs that played Grey Wind and Summer in the show. My two favorite things combined in one visit: dogs and Game of Thrones. The owners were very nice and had been extras on the set for all the seasons as well and let us all take turns taking pictures with their dogs (which must be a very strange experience to have celebri-dogs).

Back on the bus, riding my dog-petting high, I passed the time until the next stop watching the videos they played of the various CGI edits that had done to make the world seem more fantastical. Our next location was Inch Abbey, which was where they filmed the scene where they all stand up and proclaim Rob King in the North (once again, RIP).

To make the experience a little more authentic, they also provided us with capes, swords and shields. Each person got the chance to be the King in the North and take and Instagram-worthy picture (you better believe I posted that ASAP). When we’d had our fill of running around in cloaks, the group trouped back to the bus and set off for our final location.

Deep within the woods of Tollymore Forest (and by that I mean about a 10 minute walk) is the location where they filmed the finding of the direwolf pups! Here we saw the bridge where Ned saw the dead stag and the little river bank where they found the dead direwolf mother and the wolves that would later become the counterparts to each of the six Stark children (including Jon Snow).

While the filming site itself isn’t much to see, Tollymore Forest was beautiful, with scenic bridges and little castle-like structures, so it was worth the walk just for the views along the way.

 

After a full day of touring around, most people on the bus were ready to take a nap, but just in case you stayed awake for the duration of the drive back, they played the pilot episode (which was bad for me because it just made me want to watch the whole series over again).

We arrived back in Belfast at around 5:30, just in time to run back to my hostel, take a shower and eat something substantial before nighttime festivities! If you’re a big Game of Thrones fan, I’d definitely recommend the tour, but be aware, it’s starting to get cold and rainy out. So, if you’re looking to book soon, remember: Winter is Coming…

~Belfast Solo Trip~

This past weekend I finally took my first solo trip! Friday morning I packed up my things, loaded them all into my backpack and headed to Connolly Station. I had pre-booked my tickets from Dublin to Belfast on the Irish Rail website, which meant that I could choose a window seat (which was prime). When you order online you can collect your tickets at the station kiosks, which was really convenient and saved me having to rush to buy them on the day.

Once I’d boarded the train (nobody had booked the seat next to me #winning) it was only a 2 hour ride until we arrived into the Belfast train station. I must admit, when I first walked out of the station, I questioned my decision to travel alone just a bit. The station is in sort of an industrial area without many things around it, but once I started walking towards city centre and my hostel, things started looking better and my nerves calmed down.

The hostel I stayed at was awesome. It’s called Vagabonds and is located right between the Botanical Gardens and the city centre. I arrived at about 2pm and the staff members made me feel right at home, showing me around and letting me settle into my room. The beds and bathrooms were clean and there were tons of areas to chill out and talk to the other guests, which was nice.

My first day out I just sort of wandered around the city. It was sunny out (a rare thing) and so I ended up walking all the way to the river, at which point I was starving. I noticed a little cafe and decided I’d pop in for a coffee and some sort of snack. The shop was called the Dock Cafe and it was adorable. All mismatching chairs and couches, with a big map on the wall where you could add a push pin to where you were from and a little serenity garden in the corner.

I walked up to the counter, where a very nice man asked if I’d been there before and when I replied no he explained to me that this cafe operated on an honesty box system. You can have tea or coffee or cakes, whatever you want, and then when you’re done you put as much money as you think your meal/drink was worth into the box. That way those who can give more do, and those who can’t can still have the same treats. He also said that they welcome people to bring in their own food, or to just come in to relax.

I loved this idea and planted myself in one of the many cushy couches with a mug of coffee (my one true love) and a little cake (the runner up for one true love). After loitering for longer than I’d care to admit, I hoisted up my purse and left the cafe.

At that point I was so close to the Titanic Museum that I decided I’d try to catch the last tour, as it was already almost 4:45pm. Luck would have it that I got there just in time for the last hour of tours (they close at 6pm) and because at that point in the evening the S. S. Nomadic is closed for viewing, which is normally included in the price of the ticket, they give a special “late saver” ticket rate that only gives you access to the museum. Thus, I purchased my discounted ticket (£7.50 as opposed to to £17.50 for the normal day tickets) and went up into the exhibits.

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It actually was quite a cool museum, it had tons of information on the building of the ship, as much of it’s construction occurred in Belfast, as well as some tidbits on the political and social climate of Northern Ireland/the world at the time. They had an area that projected a digital walk-through of the inside of the Titanic on three walls, so when you stood in the middle it felt like you were inside it, as well as reconstructions of the rooms.

The most powerful part in my opinion though was this dark room they had set up where a video of the Titanic sinking below the surface of the water kept playing. Along the walls were copies of the Morse Code signals that the ship sent out trying to save itself, with the responses of the ships around them. And all the while, they played audio recordings of first hand accounts, people who had been on the ship and escaped on the lifeboats, reliving the nightmare.

If you have too many feels after that (guilty) you can move onto the next room where they have a huge screen projecting video of the underwater excursions to the Titanic, which definitely piqued the science-major part of my brain and which I found really interesting (they had to travel 12,500 feet underwater to get to it, the Empire State Building is only 1,450 feet…. IMAGINE THAT).

Finally they started shuffling people along as the museum was closing soon and I headed towards my hostel. The night was relatively warm and I wasn’t keen on spending a ton of money on dinner, so I grabbed a salad from Lidl and ate it on a bench in front of City Hall, which was actually entertaining as there’s good people watching around the area (there was a Mormon missionary making a very strong attempt to save passersby, which didn’t seem to go over well in many cases).

I spent the rest of the night back at the Vagabonds beer garden, drinking a few bottles I’d picked up on the way home and chatting with my fellow travelers. The next day I was going on the Game of Thrones Tour, so I didn’t want to go too wild.

I woke up early on Saturday and headed over to the meeting spot for Game of Thrones, which would take me through the sets of the North (WINTER IS COMING) and the Twins and such. I’ll write a separate post about the GoT tour, because it was an experience indeed.

We returned to Belfast at around 6:30pm, at which point I’d been so thoroughly soaked from the full day of pissing rain that I immediately headed for a pub with a pal I’d made on the tour to enjoy some burgers and beer (an award winning combo if I do say so). When heading home, I received a message from some of the other girls in the Stint program (the program that helped me coordinate my visa/does gap years and internships). They had decided to come up to Belfast too, but hadn’t been able to leave until Saturday morning and were staying in a different hostel.

They joined me at Vagabonds where we pre-gamed with the rest of the travelers and some of the hostel staff. It was good craic and eventually the whole squad moved out to a bar/night club down the street called Lavery’s (the hostel even had vouchers they gave us that allowed us free entry which was prime). Lavery’s was insane, with multiple pub areas, outdoor beer gardens/balconies and a club-type room with a DJ and a dance floor. I would definitely recommend it for a night out in Belfast.

Sunday morning was spent nursing my hangover (thank baby Jesus for large water bottles and nutella-peanut butter sandwiches) and wandering around the Botanical Gardens and Ulster Museum, which is located within the gardens and has free entry. I then joined those lovely Stint ladies again for some good old fashioned shopping in Victoria Square Shopping Centre, which is a covered mall in city centre that is a great spot to avoid the ever-changing weather.

After spending too much money on things of questionable necessity, I finally returned to my hostel, picked up the rest of my belongings, and headed to the train station to return to Dublin! Note to the wise, since Belfast train station is quite small, people start lining up to board the train out in the ticketing area early, you can’t just walk onto the platform.

And there it is! My first solo-ish trip was a success (I had people to meet up with, but I stayed by myself). On to the next! 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Day in Howth

Hello friends!

So I wanted to take the time to write about a day trip I took recently with my gal pal Hanna. One of the best aspects of living in Dublin is how easy it is to escape the city when you need a breather and be in some of the most beautiful landscapes. Howth, a town about 30 minutes away by train, offers just such an escape.

We grabbed our tickets that day from Pearse Street Station and hopped onto the train, which took us along the coast to the little seaside town. As soon as you step out of the station and walk along the little fish shops and chippers and see the boats in the harbor, you can just feel yourself relax.

The town itself is pretty bustling, with tons of tourists and residents milling around the sidewalks and through the market (then again we went on the weekend so it might have made it more crowded). There was a cluster of people standing at the edge of the dock, looking down into the water, so we made our way over, eager to see what the commotion was all about. There, bobbing in the water, was a seal! It blinked up at us, it’s whiskered face hopeful that we’d throw some fish down. When a toddler threw an apple at it instead (so rude) it submerged itself back into the waves. With thoughts of cute underwater creatures in mind, we continued on our way.

We knew we wanted to do the cliff walk, but needed some sustenance first, so we stopped at a pub and grabbed some fish, chips and cider, which then led to thirty minutes of food-coma, which we pretending was just us appreciating the ambiance of the pub.

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Hanna enjoying her pint 🙂

Once you get off the train, if you just take a left and walk all the way along the beach, you’ll eventually see the road start to veer sharply right and up a hill, that’s where the cliff walk starts (and also when your leg muscles start to feel the burn).

The views along the path are incredible, with the expanse of ocean extending out from the cliffs dotted with heather plants. Then again, they say a picture is worth a thousand words so here we are…

The entire walk took about 2 hours, but that was mostly due to the fact that we were stopping for majestic photo shoots every seven steps. It was a bit rocky and narrow at times, so good walking shoes would be a must if you’re planning on doing it.

After a questionable descent which involved us deciding to take a different path down for a “change in scenery” and then ending up in a random residential neighborhood, we finally returned to the shoreline.

We were very tired after our failed attempt at being spontaneous and decided to refuel with a good old fashioned 99 (which is soft serve with a flake stuck in it, the perfect combination of things).

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If you’re thinking of a day trip, Howth is perfect. Even if you don’t feel like doing the cliff walk, there are tons of little shops and a food market that you can stroll around in, or you can just plant yourself by the beach and read a book.